LINGSMA

Electric Upright Bass

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Resonator block

resonator block

The resonator block is designed to get the authentic character of an acoustic bass into an eub. What, how, why…?

Stand

EUB stand Compared to the acoustic bass, the eub offers opportunities to redifine the ergonomic experience.

Neck angle adjustment

Neck angle adjustment

Yes, that’s a picture of crocodile. With a halter and bit. The article is still about neck angle adjustment though.

Endpin

endpin and lever

The endpin is traditional, and has its ergonomic benefits, so that’s why I added one. Although the traditional winged nut or screw knob is replaced by …

Hardware, Electronics And Materials

electric upright bassHere you can read which woods I’ve chosen, which strings and why, which electronics and why…
What is it, ‘carbon’, and why did I use it?

Flightcase

flightcase

The lightweight carbon-aramid flightcase has room for bass and stand…

Neck angle adjustment

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Neck angle adjustment is used to change the height of the strings above the fingerboard (called action) to accommodate your playing style.

‘Crocodile’

'crocodile' neck angle adjustment

When I was tinkering with prototypes, I stumbled upon the crocodile-jaw-like mechanism you get when the neck is hinged to the body. Like the cartoon-idea of the open jaws of the crocodile, I placed a ‘halter with bit’ (a steel tube) in the beak of the neck joint, to prevent it from closing. The steel tube is pulled into the back of the mouth by a screwing bolt which can be adjusted with a hex key on the backside of the eub. This mechanism changes the neck angle and so the stringheight is adjusted.

the 'beak', neck angle adjustment
Steel tube prevents ‘jaw’ from closing
neck angle adjustment with hex key
Hex key adjustment on the back



 
 

neck angle adjustment methods

Why not at the bridge?

In general, when working with a bridge and a tailpiece, there are two methods to adjust the action.

One is to make the bridge itself adjustable; permanent by shaving off wood, or reversible with thumbwheels in the bridge for instance.

The second method is to slightly alter the angle between body and neck. The angle change to get the strings 1cm closer (which is a lot!) to the fingerboard is very small (about 0.7 degrees), while one cm extra bridge height is a big alteration to the bridge. Hearing a difference in tonal character after a neck angle adjustment of a few millimeters is unlikely.

 
I’m not too fond of alterations to the bridge, since the bridge is like a bottleneck where all energy that is exchanged between strings and resonator block passes. Also the piezofilm pickups are directly under the bridge… Changing the stability and stiffness of the bridge may alter the character of the instrument.

I’m not saying one method of adjustment is better than the other. In this particular design altering the neck-angle just seems the better option to me, because I think with this method a change in the character of the tone is the least likely occur.

 

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